I am so, so grateful that backstage coverage of Maikel Tawadros’s AW15 show was our first of the season. For me, Copenhagen Fashion Week (and any fashion week, I would assume) is a little bit like a prolonged fever dream: I don’t really know what’s going on, I’m vaguely sweaty and spend most of my time dehydrated. It’s a real treat to have such a gentle introduction to an otherwise fast-paced period of time.
That’s not to say that Maikel’s show isn’t high energy. The final moments before a runway show are, for any designer, hectic. But given that we’ve worked with Maikel often enough to know what he wants, Nomad was a show-up-and-work, no questions asked situation.
We arrived at Rådhusplads at 13:00, two hours before the show was scheduled to start, and the first run-through was nearly over. Outfits were hung on the racks, combat boots by The Last Conspiracy were ready to be laced up, and the vanities were stacked with more make-up and hair products than I’ll ever use in my entire life.
By 13:35, models were being ushered into the make-up artists’ stations. The look, which is something I am totally down to make trendy, is a dewy-meets-dirty look; it’s no-make-up make-up with a side of chimney sweep. The hair is wavy and windswept with a bit of volume.
The collection this season, which I’ve been lucky enough to preview beforehand, is my favorite work from Maikel. It’s less playful than last season, which was inspired by baseball with a 1930’s vibe. This season it’s flowing fabrics, rough edges and luxe, sturdy materials. The inspiration – the forest landscape and those who travel across it – is more serious and it shows. Nomad is cohesive, visually dynamic and, most importantly, totally wearable. The grey overcoat and cape are, in particular, fantastic (disclosure: I’ve tried on the overcoat and it has extra long arms, something that is very important for gorilla-people like myself).
Something about the more grounded nature of the clothes has seeped into the show. There’s a higher degree of calm and quietude than last season. Instead of rushing around, people seem to float. Even as make-up artists crowd around the models, and photographers crowd around them, there seems to be a sonic boom emanating from Maikel himself. It’s totally still.
When the show starts, Freya gets ready to capture the runway (let’s be real, she’s working way harder than I am. Thanks Freya!) and I take a seat. There’s obviously been some buzz around the show, and I see faces that mean business. There’s a brief voiceover and the music begins: an Arabian-tinged electronic beat that is timed just to provoke a sense of ethereal movement. The models wear thick silver bangles that catch the lights as they walk. The grey overcoat glides down the runway and every person in the room breathes lust (also, it’s cold outside).
After the show, I wish we could stay in this little bubble for just a bit longer. The fun of seeing a friend succeed and the excitement of being part of something creative are still swirling around us, wrapping us up and keeping us warm. But it’s Copenhagen Fashion Week, and it’s time for the next show.
See all of Maikel Tawadros’s collections here:
Photos and video by Freya McOmish.